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e Tuesday Oct. 4. Macedonian
Armed national ships (no more the unappointed Coast-
ers have a prescription for fair weather Adverse winds and
currents keep us yet floating about off the shores of Egypt.
Every thing on board is in the loveliest contrast to Mah Brooka,
the Blest. There are all told some fifteen or sixteen officers
and near two hundred men – compasses gradients
and all the instruments of science with charts as our guides.
We have airy and spacious cabins, clean sheets and
mattresses, floors that would make the tidiest house-
keeper ashamed of her own, meats fruits and wines,
of the richest and in abundance. I am learning a little
of the navy, of its wearisomeness, its ambitions and its
courtesies, that is not pleasant, something of its discipline
and spirit which is gratifying. On Sunday we had
dinner served and a sermon and school by the Chaplain.
It was a solemn and I am sure not a profitless day.
Yesterday "general quarters", the drill of the whole crew
"All hands" in the exercise of battle, with the casualties
of boarding, being boarded – ^the^ ships taking fire and all
that. I come to like men better when they are afloat
than ashore. Here we are carrying along a whole flock
of little birds that flutter about not only on the decks
but in the cabins, seeking flies and crumbs. The current
sailor cherishes them with kindness. The Egyptian dog

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has the graceless ears and head of a wolf. A year ago
some brutish men in Alexandria were beating a dog just as
th some of the Macedonians crew were coming on board. They
clapped the animal into the boat, and represented
the case to the Captain. The dog was received on board.
Daily, night and morning when the drum beats to call
the crew to muster, the dog comes with them and
takes always one place, and then stands until the
drum beats retreat. In the drill of the battle, he
mounts a high place out of the way of danger and
surveys the scene of conflict. I found him yesterday
the safest guide when I wanted to be out of the way.
Monastic life or habits make men seek the
society of domestic animals. In all the convents I have
seen, the cat is a privileged favorite.
But I think the People of the East are generally
much more affectionate to animals and tolerant of their
presence. The lower story of every house is occupied
by the children and often the family in common with
the camels sheep, asses and goats and horses. How
continually the identity of modern with ancient manners
in the East is forced upon my memory as I recur to the
scenes I have witnessed. "Take up thy bed and walk"
How often I thought of this once inexplicable expression when
I carrying a mat for my table and my bed; Let him

22
that is on the house top not come down" – "And he went
upon the House top to pray." The great enemy of comfort
in Palestine is the sun. Hence the turban to neutralize
its heat descending on the head. Hence every house is
roofed not with shingles, straw, slate or mud other
light substance but thick walls, three, four five feet
of stone resting on arches, and the as an Irishman
might say, when the sun is withdrawn – the pleasantest
place in the House is the floor space above it
with its parapet cov mad or balcony.