e Sunday morning October 9.
Still at Alexandria, and on board the Macedonian
The great route of travel between Europe and
the East Indies is by steamer through the Mediterranean
to this place, hence by rail road through Cairo to

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Suez at the head of the Red Sea, then — by steamer
down the Red Sea and the Persian Gulf. In
my the and returning from my travel I have fallen into
that line, and am obliged to wait here the arrival
of the Rail Road train for Suez which brings the
passengers from India, and which comes on in a
fortnight. The departure from Suez has been announced
by rail roa telegraph and to day at 4 o’clock —
I am to transfer myself from this ship to
the Austrian steamer Neptune where my voyage to
Europe will begin.
I spent yesterday on shore, and visited
the Bourse a Exchange, a modern structure erected
by the merchants of Cairo, in which I found European
newspapers, conversation and hotels. Then I spent
an hour or two in following the traces of the vestiges
of the site of the ancient Alexandrian Library. It is
truly astounding to see the mass of broken marble
and granite columns, cornices and architraves all
of the Greek order of architecture. Alexandria seems
to have after always had visions of greatness and
to have made vigorous demonstrations towards it –
but to have been as often thrust back, and crushed
down. She now is looking tofor thea speedy realization
of the same ambition. But it may be doubted

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whether Oriental Civilization or servile civilization will
bear the establishment of suffice to maintain an independent
state in Egypt or indeed anywhere. and whether
the advantages of being a great tourist route between
the East and West will be sufficient ^of themselves^ to handle re-
sources for a great Commercial City.
The Mahometans can no where form a sound and
healthy civil state. The relinquishment of that religion must
precede any constitutional system of government. I see no
prospect however of a relinquishment of that religion. The
Christian ministry piety, the Christian refrain must reach
the family every where to sow that the heathen the
seeds of European Civilization. There is no family
in Mahaomatan life. The men are despots and
constitute the whole of society. The women are slaves
and excluded from the presence of men. I have
been a month in the East, and except occasionally
an American or European Lady, I have not met a
woman, or seen even seen any, except veiled females
occasionally flitting before you in the shops or market
places.
In coming down the street yesterday I met a procession –
a singular one. A drum and fife gave people the
music, a religious person or priest, a beautiful Arab
boy dressed in blue embroidered with gold, mounted

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on a richly caparisoned white horse, a dozen
more solid looking and meanly clad veiled women
followed. The lad was about 12 or 13 years. It was
a procession to demonstrate the celebrate the circumcision
of the boy, equivalent to the Baptismal ceremony of
the Christians. So disturbing do the Oriental habits
retain the hold here on society. Christ taught them
2000 years ago that circumcisionavaileth nothing
nor yet uncircumcision, but the whole population
of the region once under the sway of his nation
adheres to circumcision as a rite essential to
the welfare and honor of man in this life and his salvation
in the world to come —