Geneva Wednesday August 7^th. 1833 [ T ] he village of Naardam is distant about thirteen miles from Amsterdam upon the River Y. Having
dined at the table Dhote & promenaded at the Exchange we went on board the steamboat at 7 O.Clock bound for that place Here was
a scene for Hogarth. There were two cabins adapted to the comfortable accommodation perhaps of twenty persons- but they
were crowded with not less than double that number ^of passengers^ and in five minutes after we left the dock of the whole number on
board there were only three who were not smoking, of this minority my father and I were two thirds and the only female
passenger was the remaining member. With a tact which I have seldom exhibited in politic, I immediately joined the
majority and smoked with the crowd. The weather was ha[ r ] d and the sea was rough. Such a scene on the cabins
presented beggared description. We landed in a shower of rain at Saardem and under the auspices of our guide book
found ourselves in the cottage where Peter the Great of Russia served incog[ nito ] an apprentice as a shipbuilder. The vener-
able little mansion would long before this have fallen to the ground but with praiseworthy consideration the Hereditary Princess of
the Netherlands who is the sister of Alexander and Nicholas and descended from Peter the Great has preserved it by inclosing it
within a substantial brick wall. Weary with the fatigues of the day we cast ourselves into musty old chairs manufactured
by the Royal shipbuilder and upon a coarse work table also a specimen of his Majestys handwork made the few
hasty notes of the objects presented in the little apartments. Opposite the entrance is a plain marble slab fixed in the wall
on which in inscribed “Petro [ Magus ] ^Alexander.^ In English Erected to the Memory ^of Peter the Great by Alexander.^ This inscription s the Emperor had caused
to be placed there before his visit. But after ^wards^ the
termination of the war with Bonaparte

x

Napoleon Bonaparte

Birth: 1769-08-15 Death: 1821-05-05

when
Alexander visited the spot he caused another
stone to be erected Commemoration of his visit
and upon which is the inscription ^Alexander I Benedictus Imperator Hunc Lapidem Ipse Posuit Die. III Kal. Mai: CIDICCCCXIIII quod laeto ac grato animo testator^
Alexander I the blessed ^Emperor Himself erected this monument on the third day of May 1814 As our witness of his gratitude"^
Another plain white marble bears this inscription ^In Low Dutch Niets is dem Grooter Mean Te Klem^
In English ^"No duty is too small for a Great man"^
This was created by the ^Princess^
The room in which these testimonials of the zeal and industry of the
founder of the Russian Dynasty are preserved is fantastically decorated
with flowers, the taste perhaps of the old domestic who realizes
doubtless a good living from exhibiting the apartments to visitors;
An album presented to each visitor in which he records his
name. This book has already swollen to more than twenty volumes-
and contains the autographs of the King Queen, Princess, & Alexander, besides the thousands of lower degrees among
whom we recorded our unpretending names. In this cottage Peter lived with the master shipbuilder and in the adjoining room
plied his tools under the name of Peter Baas unknown to his master, his
Unknown and the
Unknown and every person
in Holland except his Banker. He remained there more than a year before his secret transpired. When it became
known to the family they began immediately to treat him with great respect but he insisted that there should be no
change in their demeanour- Saardam was at that day a great shipbuilding town for Holland and was a place
of considerable commercial business. It is no longer so- its only importance is derived from the humble cottage,
which in the day of the prosperity of the town was among the meanest of its habitations. It is nevertheless interesting
from the Antique appearance which it exhibits- The storm which has raged with great violence abated before our
return in the boat. There were but few passengers. A sprightly Dutch gal on board gave us lessons in French and with her
aid as an interpreter I so far fall into the good opinion of a Dutch Gentlemen that he directed her to say to me that he
was sorry I could not speak Dutch as he would have been gratified to have a conversation with me, with this
compliment we parted- I believe I have described everything of importance which occured to us at Amsterdam. Our week
in the Exchange showed us the greatest possible contrast between the plain unassuming costume and demeanour of the
Dutch merchants and the genteel polished appearance and important air of American and English Merchants
On Change. The markets exhibited the most ludicrous array of women in the singular costume of the Country. Thepublic edifices and institutions which are splendid very properly exhibit the wealth which the Dutch have so
much prudence as not to lavish on their own persons.
On Tuesday morning at 8 O.Clock (July 23^d) we took our depar-
ture in the diligence for Germany. The expedition with which we felt ourselves bound to travel separated us from ou[ r ]
pleasant American companion Mr Baker who remained to take a more extensive examination of the interesting object[ s ]
at Amsterdam. Our
Unknown continued with us.
Nothing can be more clumsy than the Dutch Diligence. It consists of two coach bodies put together so that six
passengers ride together as in one of our railroad cars in the front part and six in the farther part- each party of six being
excluded from communication with the other. One passenger rides in front (in the Coupee) with the coachmen and
Guard. This place I had the good fortune to receive, thereby obtaining a fine opportunity to see the country with
the aid of our Guard who spoke French well and had learned some English by travelling in America- The
Guard here is called “the Conducteur.” The mails are put into his charge- there being one large mail for the place
of destination and all letters and papers for intermediate places are put up in separate pacquets labeled
with the address. On arriving at the Post office in a village the ^Guard^ blows his horn and having thus called the
Postmaster delivers the packets into his hands. The Dilligence is drawn by three horses going abreast. The Coachman
drives slow or fast as directed by the Conducteur- the harness is in the roughest style used by American farmers of the
poorest class in ploughing. The traces and reins are made of rope, the horses without blinds upon their bridles and the
harness being made with what when heretofore used in America were called Dutch Collars- Nevertheless the Dili-
gence makes commendable speed- A glass of gin and pipe with the Conducteur made us good friends. He
was very intelligent and indulged the most exalted ideas of America- He kissed the Eagle upon my passport
with an enthusiasm which expressed his romantic love of freedom- He had been a great traveller- He fought under
Bonaparte until his overthrow and then being thrown out of employment went in some subordinate capacity
in a French ship to New York. We took our course in Leaving Amsterdam through the narrow dirty street inhabited by
the Jews. This unhappy People are but now ^beginning^ begining to recover from the oppression under which they have for centuries
struggled in consequence of the bigotry of Civilized nations, bigotry which has been the only common creed of Catholics and Protestants
The great mass of them resident in Amsterdam still have their dwellings in one of the meanest and distant filthy parts
of the city and such is the peculiar strength of the ligament which binds together the remnant of the chosen People
the rich still continue to share the miserable domicile favor which poorer bretheren are unable to
escape. The road from Amsterdam during the whole of this days ride is beautiful, the country is fertile
abounding with luxuriant crops of grass and grain. For some distance it lay along the banks of the Amstel-
and here as elsewhere in Holland the canals furnish delightful situations upon their banks for villas
and summer houses- The Merchants in Amsterdam have availed themselves of these facilities and the
magnificence displayed in their dwellings in the country atones for the meanness every where observed in the
City- I made notes of the names of the different small villages we passed upon our route but I find they contain nothing
which I think would interest you. At about 2 O.Clock in the afternoon we entered Utrecht a strongly fortified
town of considerable celebrity. Our entrance was through an immense gateway in which is suspended
a bell- This and the other important towns in Holland are inclosed by walls In peace and war the
gates are shut at night and wo betide the unfortunate traveller who is too late for admission- The
gates will indeed open to him but he must make the application of a golden key. A fair had just been
held in Utrecht and we were in time for the closing scene- Booths theatres amphitheatres and circuses filled
the public square. Mountebank fortune tellers, priests and priestesses of fortune with their gaming tables of every
Odd device were yet lingering to obtain if possible further contributions from the loiterers- The business of
Merchandise at the Fair as every where else in Holland I mean of the petty sort seemed to be entrusted
to the females where singular costumes afforded us much amusement. An hour was afforded allowed
us to walk about the town and we improved it by loitering in booths resisting however every offer of trade
made to “the mynheers” doubtless upon the most advantageous terms. Utrecht is known in history from its being

the place where was made the famous treaty of peace called the peace of Utrecht. Its college is also worth ^an^ extensive
tour which we did not bestow upon it but gazed with intense interest upon the magnificent ruins of
its old Cathedral. Here is also a fine palace which was the more retired residence of Louis and Hortense
during their brief posession of the throne of Holland. One could spend a day in examining the strong forti-
fications of the City built upon one of the several branches through which the Rhine pours its waters
into the Ocean- For the distance of several miles the country around Utrecht is laid out into public
promenades shaded by lofty elms and on leaving these parks you enter a delightful scene of
successive villas belonging to the opulent merchants and Gentlemen of that city and Amsterdam
About six or eight miles from the town we stopped to change horses at one of the most enchanting
spots in the world, The little village called the Trois bells. (the Three bells) had perhaps three times that number
of houses built without regard to order among fine groves of ancient elms. In front of the dwellings
were courtyards embellished with flowers. The river running through the town received the waters of
the canals which were constructed apparently for ornament- The sun shone brightly above us but
his heat was excluded from the scene- parties of Ladies and Gentlemen genteely though not superbly dressed
occupied half a dozen tables under the trees and were sipping coffee and talking Dutch with so much
ease and pleasure that for once I wished myself a Hollander. The tout ensemble was something like what we
imagine of Oriental luxury- We too hastily left this scene of enchantment and pursued our hurried journey
through towns the names of which I cannot now read in my notebook nor find on the maps. The
Country now assumed the appearance of an agricultural region. The great crop cultivated being
tobacco. Immense fields of this plant lay on both sides of the road but we learned it is of an inferior
quality. The barns constructed for its reception are the very model of the low long Dutch barns
on the Mohawk river- there was a striking resemblance between the People and those on the Mohawk
and the Dutch ploughs on wheels left no doubt upon our minds that the greater part of the American
Dutch Colonists emigrated from this region. Gradually the luxuriant vegetation ceased to glad
our eyes- We passed through miles of pine forests and sands hardly more fertile than these
between Albany and Schenectady. An obelisk upon an eminence too far from the from the road side for
us to read the inscription marked the burying place of the Patron of this poor domain. But when
we reached the bank of the Leck or branch of the Rhine the scene again changed- A beautiful count-
ry again appeared around us and the residue of our journey presented (all the luxuries of vegetation.
About seven o.clock in the evening our coach stopped for us to descend upon the North bank of the
Waal River which Holland from Germany and opposite ^opposite^ to the town of Nymmegen- Here
was a bridge of singular ^singular^ construction- built of boats placed longitudinally in the river upon which
were laid crosswise plank floors- These boats with their singular decks when brought closely
together form one entire bridge. When a boat is to pass, a part of the floating bridge is pushed from
its moorings and the vessel passes through the space thus opened- The steamboat from Rotterdam
having just passed we were ferried across the opening, that part of the bridge upon which we
stood being pushed across the river and as soon as we arrived made stationary by fastenings and
anchors. I should not forget the fine view of Nymmegen which we had from the river- Indeed the town for several of
the last miles we had travelled was seen to great advantage from the road which is carried upon the
summit of an embankment of great height constructed to protect the Country from the Rhine
Nymegen is built upon the declivity of the bank of the Rhine with singular good taste The houses fronting the
river are covered with white snow which gives to this view an agreeable effect. Our stage preceeded us and
we made our entree on foot into the ^city^ territory of his Majesty the King of Prussia. The town is fortified with im-
mense expense- and indeed with reason it is to the Rhine and to Germany what West Point is to the
Hudson and to America. From the military aspect of the scene one would have imagined that Nymug-
gen was in hourly expectation of attack, We had seen too many soldiers in England ^and already^ too many in
Holland to think favorably of the condition of the People but in no place in either of these Countries
had we seen an array one half so formidable as greeted our eyes on entering Nyymegen ^Nymevegen^ A whiskered soldier
demanded our passports at the gate, and they were for the first time surrendered out of our keeping- In
the bustle we lost sight of our English fellow travellers, I remained to see that our luggage was not
lost by the way and my father passed on under the conduct of a waiter from th one of the Hotels who
spoke English and assured him in sounds which he was so glad to hear that the Hotel to which
he was conducting him was the very self same house at which the Diligence would stop- I fol-
lowed the Diligence and soon discovered that my father and I were going to very different destina-
tions- I abandoned the baggage and overtook him just when under the kind offices of the English waiter
he had bestowed himself into a comfortable apartment with two beds- Leaving him there I again set
out in pursuit of the Diligence which I found in quite another part of the town it having stopped at
an excellent house where our English friends had taken lodgings for ^us^ myself ^ ourselves ^ as well as themselves.
Again I retraced my steps and telling my father of the mistake we sans ceremonie decamped from
the rooms he had taken. I addressed myself to the English waiter and found that like a parrot
he had only learned by rote the necessary English phrases to induce passengers to his house- and
that the whole mistake had occurred by his ignorantly answering “yes” to interrogations which
he did not understand. He followed us in our flight repeating “perhaps Myn heers will pay a little
monish for de mistake” we gave him to understand that we had not the least objection to his
abandoning us to our guidance and he departed. Having found our Chamber at Nymwegen all we desired
I ordered the luggage taken from the Dilligence. The waiters of the masculine gender made known my wishes
to a woman who ascended the diligence by a ladder and unassisted brought down two great trunks
each of which weighed hardly less than 100 pounds. Then when I offered to assist her the “garcon,”
inquired whether she would accept their aid but she accomplished it without help.
Although it was now almost dark we immediately set about the tourists employment, that of
sightseeing. We entered the antique town Hall which displays some very ancient and grotesque
statuary and where was concluded the treaty of peace in 1678. They here exhibited to us the machinery
used in times quite recent for the punishment of wives delinquent in duty to their Lords, for it was al-
lowed to the latter when the weaker vessel refused submission to send them to the town Hall for
punishment. It consisted of something which seemed like a ducking stool but although our guide
spoke French we could not understand the mode of operation.
We visited also the Belvidere a tower built upon an eminence from the nearest of which we
had a gorgeous prospect. The town and river and fortifications at our feet, The fertile vales of Hol-
land on the North and on the South East and West Germany the view extending as far as Westphalia & Cleves

We surveyed with astonishment the extended fortifications surmounted by cannon as if ready for attack and
we descended only when the shades of night became too dim to permit further observation. On re-
turning to our lodgings we traversed the beautiful public walks and promenades of the town
and especially paused to examine the ruins of the old Chateau of Volkenhof. Our guide assured
us that this was the ^a^ rRoman ruin but I thought its construction altogether too modern although
my judgement was considerably perplexed by some Latin inscriptions to ^in^ honor of the Cesars as
well as some pillars which were similar to them of ^in^ the architecture of the Ancient Romans
We ascended a tower still remaining and the only part of the Chateau which is at all entire. This
was certainly too ancient for what is now called modern times and was too modern for
the era in which our guide (in German) insisted upon claiming for it. The difficulty was removed
when we resorted to our guide book by the discovery that it was built by Charlemagne. I should
not forget to mention that among the unique and ancient statues in the City Wall is one
of Charlemagne made by his own order. We walked around the old Church and lost our
way. Our Englishmen verified the opinion my father had entertained of them by being too proud
to inquire for our Hotel. I threw myself in bad German upon the kindness of the people we
met in the streets who in their excessive kinds turned out almost like a procession and escorted
us to our lodgings where after a good supper and securing our seats in the mornings Steamer
we lost remembrance of all but home and friends in the sleep so sound that we were with
difficulty aroused at 1/2 past 4 to f in the morning. The bank of the river during the whole ^of the next^ days voyage
were devoid of interest. We entered Prussia in the Bourgh of Cleves where the Steamboat stopped and an
officer inspected our passports and contented himself with seeing the exterior of our baggage. Al-
though the Boat left Nymwegen at 3 O.Clock every dutchman on board and they were the ma-
jority of the Passengers had his pipe at that early hour and continued to draw upon its ample
resources during the whole day. The Bank of the Rhine (for we entered upon that grand river very
soon after we left Nymwegen (which as I have said is situated on one of its arms) were crowned
with small towns and church steeples of ancient construction and great height were seen a-
bout as near to each other as in the Country in New York. The approach to these villages to
land and receive passengers gave us opportunity to discover that we were now in the
Country of a people of different language and customs from that we had just left with so
much admiration. The villages are ancient, rude and mean in appearance destitute of all
evidence of enterprise or taste, the co[ u ] ntry seemed to be no more than commonly fester
men all wear blue frocks over th[ eir dr ] ess. The women had black silk coifs upon their
and the complexion of both sexes w We thought was very tawny. At Rees we had a fine v[ iew ]
of the ruins of an old town now c un with ivy. The scenery presenting so few charms and th[ e ]
weather being very cold I employed myself in the cabin during the greater part of the day in writing to
you. The letters were forwarded from Cologne to Havre and I trust before this time all making
their way across the Atlantic to gladden your heart with the evidence I hope deeply impressed upon
them that distant as I have been and yet am from you my whole heart is yours and yours only.
As we approached Dusseldorf the Rhine which during the earlier part of our voyage was a narrow mud-
dy stream flowing between banks devoid of objects to interest us widened into a broad and beautiful
river. The appearance of the peasantry improved. The passengers who came on board talked in-
cessantly in German of which I could understand nothing but their very great surprise to see
me write so compactly in the letters upon which I was engaged. We arrived at 12 O.Clock at
night at Dusseldorf a town of considerable magnitude and I hope of sufficient importance to
have gained “a local habitation and a name “upon the American maps of Germany- since
in that case you will be able to follow me in my voyage up the Rhine. This town is the Capital
of the Grand Dutchy of Bey and is built in a plain having on the West the Rine and on the South the Dassel
from which river the town derives its name. Dusseldorf had strong fortifications until the capture
of the town by the French in 1800 or 1801. Its ^castle^ was reduced to ashes by the bombardment of the French. So much
for its history, it was described to us as “a beautiful town but this we had to take upon trust
as we had no opportunity at so late an hour of the night to test the correctness of the description
Our boat “Bateau de vapeur” as we had now learned to call it had no accommodation for sleeping
My father wrapped himself in his cloak and slept upon a bench I had to content myself with
such slumber as could be obtained by stretching myself upon two chairs with my feet resting upon
my trunk and my head upon my carpet bag. Before we arrived at Dusseldorf a scene of gallant-
ry had commenced between a young Jew dealer in watches and jewelry and a German girl who
had come on board at one of the villages on the Rhine. When I went to sleep the affair was con-
fined to themselves but afterwards for not less than half a dozen times I was roused from my
sleep by the obstreperous laugh and loud talking of all Germans and at every time I found
them all engaged in the merriment of affected courtship with the damsel. One old gentleman
who in the evening had told us he was a Surgeon in the Army and whom we found to be a
very intelligent and thought a grave and dignified persona became before morning a prominent
actor in the scene and obtained the first place in the damsels favor- You will easily ima-
gine that we had quite a restless night- We awoke at five in the morning and discovered
no change in the scenery. The Rhine was a broad river at this place with a strong current
and banks just elevated above the margin of the river- The Cottages on its banks were built of
rough framework and the spaces between the timbers were filled with brick and mud walls
leaving the ragged and mishapen timbers exposed to view- Whole villages built in this mean manner
are calculated to make an unfavorable impression upon one accustomed to see such habita-
tions only in the woods. We met the Steam Boat descending the Rhine. The current in the river
being very strong, the boat descends the river in one half the time required for the ascending
voyage. The steamboat has but recently introduced on the Rhine and as yet these are only the two.
The arrival [ of ] the other boats served to be regarded by the passengers of each respectively as an event quite as

important as at sea we were accustomed to regard the meeting of another ship. Brief space however was allowed
for greeting. We waved our hats and “the pride of the River” passed on. The river ^here^ runs through a thickly
inhabited and well cultivated country. Nearly opposite to Dusseldorf was seen the town of Neuss a village
as we would say in America containing about 5000 inhabitants of this town which is a real antique
it is recorded in history that it assisted the Emperor Frederick the 3^d against Charles the Bold
of Burgundy and received from that monarch numerous privileges in consequence of its good
conduct on that occasion. These privileges consisted in the right to coin money and to hunt, freedom
from all external jurisdiction a permission to have five great fairs annually and to add to the
arms of the town a golden eagle. What must have been the abject condition of the People
and how arbitrary the power of the Throne when such important right as that of coining
money and being exempt from external jurisdiction were arbitrarily joined in a gift with
the privileges of holding a certain number of frolics and adding a bird to their coat of
arms. It yet seems to be singular and I can hardly realize its popularity that in searching
into the history of the towns through which we pass their authentic records extend
back 1200 to 1500 years earlier than the settlement of our own Country. This town
for example though it has never grown to be larger than Auburn was taken by the
Emperor Julian. It was caused by assault by the Emperor Philip in 1205 and presented
by him to the Bishop of Cologne and since that time has undergone too many of the chances of war to be here detailed. suffice it to add that it was at Neuss that the allied forces
in 1805 first effected the passage of the Rhine. A grand advance in the atchievement
of rescuing the government of Europe from the successful soldier who won that mighty
power almost in as brief space as he lost it. I happen to remember just enough of my
Chemical studies to know that basalt is an earth formed only in few places- Our
course up the Rhine has brought us between mountains of it. there is one very near
Neuss. In the little village of Bilich distant about a mile and half from Neuss is
a chapel dedicated to the Virgin Mary which was built by the Electress Maria Anna Louisa
of the house of the Medici- At Heiliggeist on the West bank of the river is the castle of Ben-
rath built by the Elector Charles Theodore. Passing Lyons or Seus which I think you
will find on your maps we soon reached Woringen a place of great antiquity where
are found the ruins of an old Roman Castle and where yet remains ^the ruins of a^ a castle in which
in 1247 Pope Innocent the 4th convened an assembly of princes. But I must no longer
dwell minutely upon Castle or antiquities- My letter would swell to a worthless
volume of history of doubtful authenticity. We pass them all and arrive at Cologne
a place of which no lady in America is ignorant, as it has the honor of giving name to
the aromatic and reviving spirit so much in use in the toilet- As we approached the town
we had a fine view of the tower of the Cathedral- Cologne has 17000 inhabitants and is
a place of considerable business but it is one of the prettiest places in the world. We
took our temporary abode at the Rhenbergh a large Hotel near the River- Having arranged
our toilet and made our entrêe to the coffee room we were amused by the arrival of an English party. They were of the same class who render their countrymen obnoxious
to the People on the Continent as well as Americans. They called for every thing in English
Benjamin J. Seward Esq
146 Nassau Street
New York.
hMrs Wm H Seward
Auburn
SUISSE
PAR
FERNEY
NEW YORK
OCT 9

[right Margin] h

Hand Shiftx

William Seward

Birth: 1801-05-16 Death: 1872-10-10

and of course as they were not understood by the German and French waiters
they did not succeed in obtaining their demands. Then they cursed
the Waiters, swore they never saw such a house. The waiters
understood them and finally abandoned all desire to oblige
them. But Cologne is the place where the traveller is intro-
duced to what is called the panorama of the Rhine
A classic interest and romantic apreciation combine
with the greatest natural sublimity and beauty success-
ively displayed to render the remaining voyage of the Rhine
one of the most interesting in Europe- Part we now my dearest
in the Coffee Room of the Rhinebergh Hotel- (It is no new thing
for ladies to be there) and when we meet next it shall be
to traverse the delightful region to which I have alluded
forgiving with whatever we find to interest us at Cologne
We leave Geneva on Monday next the 12^th of August and before
the close of the week will have rested from our sojournings at Paris

x

Paris, France

How long will be our stay there is unc[ ertain ]

x

Supplied

Reason: hole

and for reasons which you
will understand- My next letter will announce the fixing
of our plans- Till then my dearest B.J.S. will send forward.